Grand Tetons sightseeingUsually the only official part of the De Anza College Outdoor Club Grand Tetons trip is the kayaking, but there's lots more to see and do. Bring your good hiking boots! Don't plan too tight of a schedule, as you may stop and spend quite awhile longer watching animals than you might have expected.
(There are more pictures at:
Grand Tetons beaver lodge pictures)
You can download a Grand Tetons park map at:
http://www.nps.gov/grte/pphtml/maps.html
to be able to follow along with this narrative.
A larger version of this drawing of the Teton range, with the names of each peak,
as printed in the park newspaper, is at:
Teton range peak names
To print yourself a copy of three profile drawings
of the Teton Range with the names of peaks seen from these three views:
1) Highway 89, one mile south of Moose Junction
2) Teton Point turnout on Highway 89
3) from Jackson lake Lodge
go to:
http://www.nps.gov/grte/parkmgmt/guideres.htm
and click on Teton profile
A list of where to look for (and etiquette/safety while looking at) various mammals:
http://www.nps.gov/grte/pubs/brochures/mammal.pdf
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When you see a bunch of cars stopped along the road, it usually means someone spotted a large mammal. As you sightsee, park in parking lots in designated parking spaces or well out of traffic on a solid road side pavement strip. Remember that parking on natural vegetation results in permanent damage to plants; violators are ticketed.
All is well when the moose is up on a hill, but when he decides to come down, cross the road, and head for his mid-day napping/hiding place, people need to give him a lot more room than these did:
 
Read about safety at wildlife jams
The camera angle in one of the photos above makes the moose look much smaller than he was. Try this comparison of a SUV and a moose (NPS photo) :
For more size comparisons go to:
Rocky Mountain mammal size comparisons
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You can't always drive on every road or hike every trail. The park enforces a half mile closure from Feb. 15 to Aug. 15 around all bald eagle nests and sometimes trails can be closed due to grizzly activity.
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There are two roads between Moose Junction and Jackson Lake Junction. The main road, 23 miles on this section, Highways 191, 26/89, is straighter and generally faster, except during road construction.
Between mid June and mid July 2008, vehicles in the park hit and killed two wolves, one fox, one pronghorn antelope, one bison, two moose, four deer and four elk. Please drive the speed limit and be prepared to stop suddenly. Driving slower than the posted speed limit, especially after dark, can save animal (and human) lives.
    
If you turn off at Antelope Flats road just north of Moose, Mormon Row runs south from it to Gros Ventre Junction road.
 
The main highway has a number of turnouts to stop and take pictures, and side roads down to the river.
At the end of Schwabacher Road, here is the view:
360 degree view from the Teton Point turnout
http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=teton_view_point
The Snake River overlook is where Ansel Adams took his famous 1942 black and white picture. (Photo from National Archives.) And on the right, about the same shot as shown on the 2009 Grand Teton Park international stamp.
 
We recommend you include a 3/4 mile walk around the 1890 Cunningham Cabin, 6 miles south of Moran.
 
It's a lodgepole pine "dog-trot" building of two boxes apart from each other with a sod-covered roof over its entirety, creating a veranda in the center. At first it was used as a house, then a barn and smithy.
 
The buck-and-rail fences at the homestead and in the entire area were used so that people didn't have to dig fence post holes in the rocky ground. They are designed with upright Xs or "cross bucks" supporting the horizontal rails.
read more at:
Campfire Tales of Jackson Hole
THE AFFAIR AT CUNNINGHAM'S RANCH
http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/grte/chap5.htm
All along this road are occasional opportunities for seeing bison, or in this case, horses and bison grazing together:
 
Part of the road is often long and straight,
tempting you to exceed the speed limit, but try not to. You'll be much happier when you have the time to brake as an animal runs across the road in front of you or a tourist stops suddenly when they think they've seen something.
 
At the Moran entrance station the main road bears left. From the entrance station it is 5 miles to a junction with the Teton Park Road described below. On the way you should stop at the small parking lot / turnoff on the left for Oxbow Bend, one of the best aquatic wildlife watching areas. Check with the park for times a Ranger will be there to answer questions. On our trips this is the place we most often kayak at in the morning.
Photo below by Fred Hanselmann http://www.hanselmannphotography.com/Pictures_of_the_tetons.html)
The other road (Teton Park Road) is on the other side of the river, closer to the mountains. It also has various turnouts worth stopping at.
At Moose junction, just over the bridge, turn left to the Grand Tetons Discovery and Visitor center , which has the biggest collection of books, postcards and posters for sale (they accept your Yosemite Association membership card for a discount)
 
from an article in Planet Jackson Hole:
"Located across the Teton Park Road from the existing visitor’s center, the new facility offers breathtaking views of the Tetons from the parking lot, the entryway and the outdoor terrace. Visitors will walk through a courtyard area surrounded by massive columns of Douglas fir, harvested from a sustainable forest in British Columbia.
"As people enter the doors, they’re just going to be overwhelmed by this whole ambience and spectacular feeling they’ll gain from floor-to-ceiling windows that spotlight and highlight the Teton Range," (GTNP Public Affairs Officer) Jackie Skaggs said. Locators on the floor will help orient visitors to specific peaks outside that wall of glass, with information about the name of the peak, its elevation, how it got its name or when it was first climbed.
The Grand Teton Association – the park’s 70-year partner that sells educational and interpretive materials in the visitor center store – will have a much-improved space from which to display and market books on natural history, climbing, wildlife and the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. The store will be located to the right of the main entrance and will be 1,500 square feet, more than twice its existing 600 square feet.
“They will be able to expand their offerings. It has been so cramped, people can hardly get around the bookshelf areas,” Skaggs said. “Everything they make in the way of proceeds from sales, they put back into the park. They will continue to provide these additional funds but in a much more exciting and beautiful space.”
There will also be a large exhibit area, focused on the themes people, place and preservation. With cutting-edge dioramas, large uprights that mimic the angle of the mountains in the distance, full-scale sculptures of wildlife made from white stone and an old wagon from the JY Ranch, the visitor’s center will have dramatically improved, interactive exhibits and documentaries.
In addition, there will be a special mountaineering section with a floor-to-ceiling mural of the Grand Teton, which makes visitors feel like they are “vicariously on the mountain,” Skaggs said. There will be various types of climbing equipment that people can handle and see how it works.
One unique feature – the first for the park service – are the “video rivers” streaming across the floor in the exhibit areas. Glass screens, four feet by 15 feet, embedded in the floor will play exquisite cinematography, providing a bird’s eye view of wildlife, scenery and park activities. The flow of the video rivers mimics the sensation of a river flowing through a canyon, serving as a symbol of the Jackson Hole valley."
Down a side road is a float trip parking area, down another side road on the opposite side of the river are rental cabins, gas, small store, a deli/pizzeria and canoe/bike/sports rentals.
Find each of these on an aerial photo/ map at:
Moose, Wyoming
The Moose Visitor Center (Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center) is usually the only visitor center open all year. Hours (2009) 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. off-season, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. early June to Early Sept.
Just past Moose, save time for a long stop at the 1/2 mile loop trail pioneer homesteading displays, historic cabin and store at Menor's Ferry. (The turnoff is on the right as you drive north on the Teton park road just north of the Moose Visitor Center.) The park service says the trail "affords a look at homesteading and pioneer life in Jackson Hole. Ride a replica of the ferry that crossed the Snake River at the turn of the century (the ferry is launched after high water in the spring, usually after the 4th of July," when staffing allows).
 
"Bill Menor charged 50 cents for a team, 25 cents for a horse and rider. A foot passenger was carried free if a vehicle was crossing...
NPS photo: 
During the wild berry season, Bill would charge "huckleberry rates" to the local people—fare one way only—when the berries were ripe along the ridges and around the lakes under the Tetons...
Once, after looking over the miles of sage that covered the levels of land that rise from the river to the mountains, an Eastern lady said to Bill, "Mr. Menor, what do you raise in this country?"
Bill, a dyed-in-the-wool bachelor, looked at her and said, "Hell and kids and plenty of both."
Read more at:
MOUNTAIN RIVER MEN
THE STORY OF MENOR'S FERRY
http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/grte/chap7.htm
Historic Menor store hours usually are 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. through late September. Join a ranger for a 45 walk June-early Sept. (3 p.m. 2009).
The park website page about Menor's ferry is at:
http://www.nps.gov/grte/historyculture/menors.htm
Read a thumbnail history of the founding of the park at:
http://www.nps.gov/grte/pubs/brochures/creation.pdf
and a historical overview ( A Place Called Jackson Hole) at:
http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/grte2/hrs.htm
Photo below from http://www.wyomingtalesandtrails.com/tetons2.html
The Chapel of the Transfiguration is nearby. You'll recognize the altar window view framing the tallest Teton peaks from postcards. The park services asks: "Please be respectful, the chapel is a house of worship."
The Sacred Heart Chapel, right on the lake, south of Jackson Lake dam, is not the same photo opportunity.
Moose, Wyoming has a black and white aerial photo/map that could help you locate Menor's and the Chapel of the Transfiguration.
On the left about 8 miles from Moose is the side road to South Jenny Lake. There's another visitor center with geology information, a small store and in season, the (fee) shuttle boat across the lake to Cascade Canyon.
Cascade Canyon is a quite popular hike, sometimes crowded, but not if you get up earlier or go farther than most of the hikers. We've seen moose, a pine marten, marmots, pikas, golden-mantled ground squirrels, Steller jays, tanagers, sparrows, water ouzels and more.
You can do a short hike to Hidden Falls
and the Inspiration Point viewpoint down to the lake (The Rangers lead hikes there daily at 8:30 a.m. for about 2 1/2 hours from early June to early Sept. and occasionally later in September). For a farther hike it's 4.5 miles to the trail junction and another 2.7 miles and a 1,000 foot plus climb to Lake Solitude at 9,024 feet elevation.
Cascade Canyon, Grand Teton National Park has pictures, more details and the shuttle boat cost.
You will really want your own binoculars.
A few miles further north on the Teton Park road is the turnoff to String Lake and the hike/or paddle and portage to Leigh Lake. One stop on the way in is the Cathedral Group Turnout with a spectacular view of the Grand Teton (13,770'), Teewinot (12,317') and Mt. Owen (12,922').
Just past the String Lake parking lot, the road becomes one way for the Jenny Lake Scenic Drive. As you drive, bike or hike this route you are on the terminal moraine of the Jenny Lake Glacier that formed the lake. There is a small parking lot right above the lakeshore with this view across to Cascade Canyon:
We like this road better than some others for bike riding as the traffic is slower. The JLS drive rejoins the Teton Park Road near South Jenny Lake.
At some point during your trip you should take the 5 mile drive up Signal Mountain summit road for a panoramic view of the entire Teton range, Jackson Lake and most of Jackson Hole.
A description of the drive, and which parking lot to use for which views, is at: Signal Mountain, Wyoming.
On the left past Signal Mountain Lodge you'll see Jackson Lake close by for the first time. Past this bay, just before the dam itself, is a small parking lot with restrooms. From there you can walk out on the dam for a long view and pictures.
360 degree view from the Jackson Lake dam:
http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=jackson_lake_dam
At Jackson Lake junction our two roads meet and combine to head north to Colter Bay and Yellowstone. Just before you pass Jackson Lake Lodge you might find a traffic jam and cars parked along the roadway. This will either be because someone spotted a moose on the left at a big pond well below the roadway, or because a lot of people are looking for moose, swans and ducks along the sagebrush trails of Christian Pond on the right.
Look for the black and white aerial photo at: Jackson Lake Lodge vicinity to find Christian Pond.
COLTER BAY INDIAN ARTS MUSEUM
About eight miles north of Jackson Lake junction, down the road from the Colter Bay campground and cabins, the Colter Bay visitor center ( May, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. June 1 - Sept. 7, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sept. 2 - Oct 12, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. 2009) houses an Indian Arts Museum that's worth another long stop. Watch the schedule for the Grand Tour the rangers offer. (June 1 to Sept. 7, 2009 at 4 p.m. for 45 minutes every day).
The park service says "Visit the museum to view art created by native peoples and gain a glimpse of 19th century American Indian life. American Indian and wildlife videotapes and a park orientation slide program are shown throughout the day. Ranger-led activities include museum tours, park orientation talks, natural history hikes and evening amphitheater programs." The art collection includes objects from more than 75 tribes, including regional tribes such as the Shoshone, Bannock, Blackfoot and Nez Perce. Robes, moccasins, baskets, and hand-worked horse saddles make up only part of the very valuable and rare collection. "Native American art has spiritual significance in addition to beauty and function."
 
Each year the park sponsors a program for visiting Native American artists at the Colter Bay Visitor Center and Indian Arts Museum, usually a different artist each week, May to September. Guest artists usually exhibit daily, Monday through Sunday, from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the lower level of the
Colter Bay Indian Arts Museum. Artists also offer their finished items for purchase, including painting, carving, beadwork, weaving, jewelry, quillwork, drums, flutes, flint knapping, knives &/or pottery. The artists during the club 2009 trip will be: August 31-Sept.6 (Shoshone) beadwork, Sept. 7-13 Shoshone beadwork and quillwork, Sept. 14-20 Tarascan-Apache drums and flutes.
At the north end of Colter Bay there is a 1.5 mile trail with a small causeway to an island. A self-guiding nature trail goes around the island. The trail starts behind the visitor center or at the day use area.
Look for the black and white aerial photo at: Colter Bay, Grand Teton National Park to find the museum, lakeside picnic area, Visitor Center, grocery, etc.
Past Colter Bay, on your way to Yellowstone, stop at the north end of Jackson Lake for this view, as seen in an Ansel Adams photograph (courtesy of the National Archives.)
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Before your trip, try out the Smithsonian Institution online museum: Tracking the Buffalo, Stories from a Buffalo Hide Painting.
"In the use of the bow we had to become very skillful, for in my days of boyhood it was the means of getting all our food, mainly the buffalo. It not only took a skillful man, but a brave one, to face a herd of buffalo with nothing but a trusty bow and a quiver full of arrows." Luther Standing Bear (Lakota Sioux), 1931
http://americanhistory.si.edu/hohr/buffalo/index.html
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You can get boat or backpack permits, a complete bird checklist, park fishing regulations and lots of other information and questions answered at any visitor center. The Moose and Jenny Lake centers have a raised relief map of the park, a section of which is shown below. (Jackson Lake is the big lake, Jenny Lake is the lake in blue at the top left, the red dot is the visitor center.)
Adventurers young and old can pick up the paperwork to earn a Grand Teton Young Naturalist badge, and take the pledge. You will want to start work on this at the beginning of the De Anza trip to have time to complete it.
 
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Annual impacts of vehicle collisions with wildife in Grand Teton: $155,000 personal property damage, over 100 large animals killed annually.
Photo of griz and cubs crossing a road in Grand Teton park courtesy of NPS:
The local Forest Service reminds us:
"YOU ARE TOO CLOSE TO WILDLIFE IF:
· The animal stops feeding or resting.
· The animal starts moving either toward or away from you.
· The animal starts panting, huffing or making unusual sounds.
· The animal begins pawing the ground or swinging its head.
· Neck hair or feathers stand up.
· The animal appears nervous, uneasy or stressed.
If you notice these signs you are disturbing the animal and it is time
to slowly move away.The safest way to view wildlife is through
binoculars or spotting scopes."
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For a longer tour:
Wyoming Centennial Scenic Byway
http://www.byways.org/explore/byways/2052/stories/68392
If you have a topographical map, get it out and check out the spectacular 360 degree view from the summit of the Middle Teton:
http://www.virtualjacksonhole.com/SceneViewer.aspx?VRLN=middle_teton_summit
We spotted Timbered Island, (is that Bradley Lake?), Moose, Blacktail Butte, the airport, the ski lifts at Snow King Mountain, and of course the Snake River and Antelope Flats.
For details about our next trip, go to: Grand Tetons
Grand Tetons trip pages index has brief descriptions of most of the pages about this trip.
and there's more info at:
Grand Tetons kayaking, Grand Tetons biking
Enhance a hike by reading:
Day hike gear
GORP and hiking snacks
Thunderstorm and lightning safety
At altitude
animal sign comparisons
Hiking Advice has hot weather hiking advice, hiking logistics and the answer to the question: When is the best time of day to cross a mountain stream?
more pictures at:
Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Park photos
photos below by Quang-Tuan Luong/terragalleria.com, all rights reserved.
  
This is from an eastern U.S. website: The Rockies and the Tetons 2002.
Some of the advice is reasonable, but the author is a bit too worried about dangers. We are including it here mostly for a laugh, but hey, most of it is true. It was all italicized.
"WARNING: I recommend against hiking in these parks, due to the numerous life-threatening dangers. The high altitude of the mountains impose numerous requirements on hikers: lightning strikes the highest points on mountains, and when you are above tree-line you become the highest point, so always get off the mountain when rain occurs; the thin air results in heavy breathing which creates a loss of water vapor, hence you require about three times as much drinking water as required on Eastern U.S. mountains; thin air causes dizziness which can result in falling off the mountain, fainting, and death through edema, which requires numerous days of getting used to the thin air at lower altitudes; thin air provides less protection against ultraviolet radiation, so prescription dark glasses and sunscreen are required. If you do hike in these mountains, always talk with a park ranger about the conditions of the trail and your own physical condition and experience. Always tell someone where you are going, and when to expect you back; never hike alone. Also, the only real window for hiking is around the first two weeks of August, since snowstorms and icestorms can occur at any time. Beware of forest fires, and always check beforehand about their locations. Beware of wild animals jumping right in front of your moving vehicle. Beware of loose rocks and rockslides that may fall onto your trail from mountainsides nearby. Finally, the single greatest cause of death or injury in many of our national parks is automobile accidents, and driving in the western mountains is especially dangerous."
NPS photo:
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